These 16days Saudi Arabia Itinerary links up three weekends over two full weeks. And this is just enough to cover most of the main attractions. That said, this itinerary doesn’t cover all corners of Saudi Arabia. It does take you through 8 out of the 13 provinces in Saudi Arabia. So, if you plan to make only one trip to Saudi Arabia, this is a good 16days itinerary to follow. If you are also on a budget, you have come to the right place.

Driving the 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary
Saudi Arabia is a huge country, where the distance from one sight to the next can be really far. As such, it’s tempting to leave it to others to do the driving for you. However, public transport is really also quite scarce at almost every destination. The intercity train and bus fares cannot be considered cheap either. Compounded with the inconvenience of having to move your bags, it makes sense to just drive the entire trip. Furthermore, it is so common for those able to drive, drive. It is not uncommon for families in Saudi Arabia to have more cars than the number of people at home. The infrastructure and the affordable cost of fuel supports driving. I do hope the country clean energy soon for electric vehicles, but that will take time.
These 16 days in Saudi Arabia covers almost 4600km in this Budget Itinerary. This averages at about 288km per day, which is about the road distance between Seattle and Portland.
Free and Easy… taking my time… or not… in this 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary
In these 16days, this is my actual Saudi Arabia Budget Itinerary with a little detour here and there. Also, the very definition of a free and easy trip is about travelling at one’s own pace. Sometimes, I do oversleep and hang around half-awake. It’s also nice to have a prolonged breakfast after your breakfast is finally served. Drink breaks, and toilet breaks are also necessary. I also drive well within the allowable speed, stopping at lay-bys to just admire the view, and to take pictures. Most of the time, I also let my curiosity do unplanned visits and detours. Then there is the urge to join the queue for that food stall, while others try to cut in front. Finally, just slowing down while the rest of the world is hurrying along, is itself a luxury and enjoyment.

Time waits for no one though. Please consider the more concise and optimized itinerary here if you have less time to spare. This more concise itinerary only includes the stops and the sights worth your time. The days of the week do matter, considering that most places close on Fridays in Saudi Arabia. This helps provide clarity in trip planning, especially to minimize leave usage while maximizing time available for travel. Please go to driving in Saudi Arabia for more on my driving experience. It also explains why I had chosen a counterclockwise itinerary heading north first for these 16Days of travel in Saudi Arabia.
16 Day Saudi Arabia Budget Itinerary
Contents and Summary
- Day One: Riyadh to Hail
- Day Two: Hail to Al Ula
- Day Three: Al Ula
- Day Four: Al Ula
- Day Five: Al Ula to Madinah
- Day Six: Madinah to Al Wabah Crater
- Day Seven: Jeddah
- Day Eight: Jeddah
- Day Nine: Jeddah
- Day Ten: Al Bahah and Thee Ain
- Day Eleven: Thee Ain to Jazan
- Day Twelve: Faifa Mountains and Wadi Lajeb
- Day Thirteen: Rijal Alma’a and Abha
- Day Fourteen: 1000km drive from Abha to Riyadh
- Day Fifteen: Riyadh and The Edge of the World Tour
- Day Sixteen: Riyadh
16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day One: Ushaiqer to Hail (Friday)
Riyadh International Airport
I arrived at Riyadh International Airport T3 on Friday early morning, catching my flight right after the work day ends. Most transit flights via a middle east airline, reach early morning to yield a full day of travel. My flight had been delayed for 40min. By the time I had cleared the queue at immigration to reach the arrival hall, another 40mins had already passed. By the time I reached the car rental desk in T5, it was already 0430hrs in the morning. It was 0530hrs by the time I was ready to drive off. And not long after leaving the airport road system, it was the first light in winter at around 0600hrs.

Al Quiranah, Riyadh Province
Driving so far was uneventful. I reached my first stop at about 0700hrs, a location shortlisted to pick up drinking water and a quick bite. The grocery-cum-camping equipment store at Al Quiranah is open 24hours and reasonably priced considering its rather remote location. This location was also stocked with camping gas which is more than affordable by international standards. The same gas canister would have cost triple the price in Europe. There is quite the variety to choose from, in terms of quantities. Some were as large as regular gas cylinders suited to support serious culinary pursuits for a large amount of cooking.

I spent SR12 in total. for gas and lighter, locally produced mineral water, and a pack of bread. There is also a shop selling prata in the vicinity, a mosque, along with toilets. The gas station did not seem to be working at the time when I was there. I later got to know that Al Quiranah is the rest stop for tours heading to Edge of the World.
Hlewa Heritage Village, Riyadh Province
At about 0930hrs, I reached Hlewa village. Much of the mud houses had been cordoned off as many had collapsed or washed away by seasonal rain. The remaining parts were hanging onto itself precariously, seemingly giving way anytime soon.

Disappointed, I explored what is still accessible for an hour before heading off to the next stop at Ushaiqer.
There is a heritage trail linking Hlewa and Ushaiqer. However, I didn’t think I would want to try walking under this sun which was beginning to feel scorching. The walk will also take up some 4 to 5 hours just one way.

Ushaiqer Heritage Village, Riyadh Province
At about 1100hrs, I parked a little walking distance from Ushaiqer Heritage village. I wasn’t sure if I can drive into the village itself. As I explored the street, some houses had their doors wide open for visitations. Tea/Coffee/Water/Dates are on offer to guests.

Saudi Hospitality
I inadvertently ventured into another house. The owner saw me and offered me water and an Arabic pastry. It was all quite intriguing to receive such hospitality. So, I mustered the courage to ask the owner how the hospitality works.

The owner understood some English while I had understood none of the Arabic, so Google Translate came into play. He shared that there is no government subsidy. They are doing this for the pride of their heritage. They are now living in Riyadh and is only back during the weekends to touch up their ancestral home. His son came into the house shortly, and was a more effective interpreter.

Together, they brought me for a quick tour around the neighbourhood. Ushering me to the local mosque, they also showed me the school they had used to go to. Then, they explained the well-thought out drainage system that prevents flooding during the winter rains. This is the brilliance and pride of the village which even a large city like Jeddah does not have. They also shared that years ago, their great grandfather was a prince and head of the village. Though, such status no longer meant anything in modern times. At 1300hrs, I thanked them at the bottom of my heart for giving me such a great introduction. I shared that I am heading to Hail, and got to know that it was snowing there just days ago.

Al Oqiylat Museum, Buraydah, Qasim Province
It was about 2-hour 180km drive from Ushaiqer Heritage Village to Buraydah. I finally reached the vicinity of Al Oqiylat Heritage Museum in Buraydah at about 1600hrs. Parking away in an open spot some distance from the museum, I hurried myself along to save time. The doors of the museum were closed tight and shut. The door did not bulge as I tried to push it open. Another local father-son pair had also come by to visit and they were also disappointed with the seeming closure. A few more locals who parked by the road, signaled to ask if the museum was closed, while I nodded.

Looking bewildered, they started knocking on the door and to my pleasant surprise, the door opened. This is a realization that the museum is open as per listed times from 3.30pm to 5.30pm on Google. It seems that the museum only closes its doors to keep out the heat. As I busied myself with the exhibits, not understanding the Arabic captions, more people streamed into the main museum hall. Meanwhile, the floor had been prepped with cushions and delicacies.

The VIP
Many local men in their national dress, now fill the main hall of the museum. A number were seated upfront near a taxidermized camel at the stage, flanked by assistants and security. I asked one if it was royalty and received an affirmative nod that the VIP is a prince. As I was still some 3 hours away from Hail, I would have to leave. It is certainly interesting to hang around and observe His Highness. I headed back to the door and ask to leave the museum while a security detail was on guard.

At 1640hrs, there is already a jam on the road. I would have to drive through the city of jam-packed roads to get onto the highway to Hail. This took some 40mins before I reach the targeted gas station at the northwestern end of Buraydah. As I drove off, the sun is setting in the horizon.
Hatem Lighthouse Trail, Hail, Hail Province (Still Day 1 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
280km later, I managed to exit the highway to reach Hail at about 2000hrs. Parking in an open carpark near to the Hatem Lighthouse Trail, it was just 5 degrees Celsius. I put on my cold weather gear after a quick bite, starting the ascent at about 2040hrs. Reaching the trail limits in the chilly darkness, the trail seems to be cut off. A new roller coaster structure was under construction, and there is no clear path that leads to Hatem Views. Despite this, I took time to admire the night view of the city. Even though the trail is a lighthouse trail, there is no lighthouse in sight!

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Two: Hail to Al Ula (Saturday)
A’arif Fort, Hail, Hail Province
0900hrs and I am at the parking lot near to the A’arif Fort. I was the first to arrive and it seems that routine morning cleaning is still in progress. Chilly wintry air mix with the very strong sun, while the day gradually warms up. The fort has neither gates nor fence line, and is now open for visits.

There are a couple of stairs up to the top though they are all easy to climb.

The fort itself was high enough to command a rather good panorama of the city.

From here, I could also see Al Samra mountain where Hatem views is. I pondered if I should make a second attempt to ascend.

Having spent a good 45mins to explore all areas and exhibits accessible for visitors, I headed to the exit. Walking out, the staff office is now open and the security requested that I sign in to register my visit. Toilets are available here as well. Exiting the fort I walk around the castle on the other end back to the carpark. There was some soft mewing along the way as I chanced upon some adorable kittens who looked very hungry. Sigh, I had no milk which I could offer.

With some bit of time left, I decided that I will try to ascend Hatem viewpoint by foot again.
Hatem Views, Al Samra Mountain, Hail, Hail Province
1030hrs: Back at the same carpark as last evening, I headed to the restricted road open only to select vehicles. This time, I will take the road sidewalk instead of the trail. It wasn’t a difficult ascent though the gradient was rather steep at certain parts.

In 30mins, I had reached the top at Hatem Views, taking in the view. Some locals were pleasantly surprised at the sight of a foreigner and asked if I am a tik-tok-er.

Heading into the building where the coffee shop is, I checked the time. It is crucial to commence the drive by mid-day if I am to catch the sunset at Harrat viewpoint. I hurried on to descend Hatem Views and then quickly ascended the other summit on Al Samra mountain. This summit is cordoned off to vehicular traffic., and offer a different vantage point. Here I lingered a while more.

Invisible Road Humps
1150hrs: I found the gas station enroute to the highway so I have a full tank for the 440km drive. Refueling went fine, but a number of road humps are hazards on the road. The contrast markings on them are no longer visible. As such, many humps were inconspicuous, and are road hazards. While the fuel gauge indicated that the car can potential attain a mileage of 651km. Not managing to slow down at this particular road hump, resulted in a rather heavy landing. The fuel gauge is now showing 551km, which is a drop of 100km or 20%. The gauge continued to dip at about 1km for just 100m driven. Therefore, the possibility that the fuel tank was leaking flashed across my mind.
Not wanting to risk being stranded in the middle of nowhere, I stopped at the next gas station to check. I even asked a chop shop there if it was possible to check. Perhaps, the google translated Arabic had not been clear, so their response came negative. 10mins passed, there were neither oil drips nor leaks observed. Have I been scaring myself? I refueled a second time to as much as the tank allows, and that came up to just 4 litres. This whole episode lasted till 1235hrs, as I moved off reassured by the logic that there are no visible leaks.
Enroute to Al Ula
The road to Al Ula is monitored by radar according to signs on the road. There were also a number of interim road blocks and checkpoints by the local police. Almost 2 hours drive later, I reached Ash Shamli where the Supply North Petroleum Services Complex is. Here, I stopped for a drink and quick bite. The fuel gauge is now consistent with the distance and there had been no further anomaly.

The desert sun has been shining through to the GPS on my phone. The irradiation of the sun has resulted in my phone overheating. I had initially thought that it was the operation of Google maps which had caused the overheating. Therefore, I turned off the GPS for the remainder of the journey. This is in god faith that road signs would be adequate to bring me to Al Ula. Furthermore, there is only one way there. The drive west wasn’t too comfortable with the setting sun right in the eye. An earlier drive may have been more comfortable, just to avoid the setting sun.

Entering the realm of Al Ula
1645hrs: Reaching the realm of Al Ula, there were even more police road blocks and checkpoints. While I hoped to stop by Elephant rock, it would have resulted in missing the sunset at Harrat viewpoint. In most circumstances, aerial views always beat ground level views, so I pressed on towards Harrat Viewpoint. If not for the fuel gauge, I could have seen the elephant rock and avoided a detour to return later.

Arriving at the roundabout at the end of the road, I was unsure where I should be going. Activating the GPS, the drive up to Harrat Viewpoint would take another 30mins to my horror. I had looked at the map thinking it was just there. Looking at the map in detail, a winding road leads to a series of hairpin bends up the plateau.
There were others who seem to be rushing to get up the plateau too. The speed limit on the plateau was 40 or 50km/h on most stretches, and I was already at the limit. And yet, almost every other car overtook me, and neither slowed down after. Were they driving at 80km/h or more? In the meantime, on approach, a number of cars were already leaving the viewpoint. Was the sunset over?
Harrat Viewpoint, Al Ula, Madinah Province
1730hrs: Finally parked in a carpark which is now less crowded, I hurried over to the viewpoint. Some rocks were in the shadow of the mountain though much was still golden lit by the setting sun. Arriving earlier I would have been able to catch the entire valley oasis bathed in the golden sunlight. Appearing as gold, it reminded me of the golden canyon at death valley in the USA. So this is what I saw, still golden but a portion already shaded by the shadow of the mountain.

I hung around to soak in the evening views and the city lights below. Speaking to Harrat Viewpoint representative Mr. Abdulaziz, he shared that the viewpoint is free for a reason. It is of priority that people know about what Saudia Arabia has to offer.

1930hrs: The night was getting chillier and it was time to hunt for dinner. The evening would also be good to explore the Aljadidah district which would be more alive than the hot day. While it was a dark drive down the series of hairpin turns, there were very little cars at this time.

Saq, Al Ula, Madinah Province
I had googled for a place where the local residents would dine at. It is also ideal that one local eatery is located enroute to AlJadidah in Suq. At this time, they are also already opened for business. Though the menu was entirely in Arabic, Google word lens can always help with the interpretation.

The bummer came when I could not pay with a visa/master card, as the establishment only accepts MADA. I asked if there were ATMs in the vicinity and got a negative reply. I kicked myself for not having some cash, and asked if the eatery could perhaps accept Qatari Riyals. On the other hand, while checking Google Maps for ATMS, what is this that Google maps is telling me? Google maps shows a bank and ATM 700m north. So, being my inquisitive self, i just had to make the walk to check. Unfortunately, there is really no ATM and the building that used to be there had already been demolished. It is important to note that Google maps are not quite as updated here. Along with a few other occasions, it is advisable to cross-check other sources apart from just Google maps.

The other option for local food options would be south of the Old Town South Parking. It was a 10min drive away and upon reaching the carpark, it was full. Luckily, there was a spot available along the road with a number of other cars.
Al Sukhayrat, Al Ula, Madinah Province (Still Day 2 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
2100hrs: After walking ten minutes from the south carpark, I finally reached the first row of eateries. My first choice was a Yemeni restaurant and I picked a Chicken Oqda. Apprehensive that card payment will not go through, it was a relief when it did. The food that came was comforting and satisfying in this wintry season.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Three: Al Ula (Sunday)
Dadan and Jabal Ikmah tour
Winter Park
0700hrs: It was time to get ready for the Dadan and Jabal Ikmah tour. I had booked this tour just a few days ago on the official Visit Al Ula website. I wasn’t sure about this tour, as the highlight of Al Ula and probably all Saudi Arabia is Hegra. That image of the lone tomb carved onto a single rocky outcrop was what got me to Saudi Arabia. The plan is to do all tours on the same day to optimise time. The other tours are that of Maraya and Hegra, and the earliest Dadan tour at 0745hrs fit in nicely.

Dadan South
Reaching winter park at 0720hrs, there were two buses and one was ready to leave. It appeared that I would be the only passenger on the remaining 40-seater bus. Another group reached the carpark right at 0745hrs, but the driver was directed to proceed on over the phone. They later caught up at the Dadan visitor centre to join the bus tour proper.

Perhaps, due to the lack of people on this tour, I had an amazing time. I had full attention of the Rawi and her assistants who even helped with picture taking. They also answered any questions which we may have.

The Dadans inhabited the locality way before the Nabateans (the people behind the impressive Petra and Hegra). Graves had been carved into the mountains first by the Dadans. The highlight would be the lion ornamentation above a tomb. Also intrigued by how ancient human beings knew where water is, the presence of trees signify the presence of water. Al Ula is home to Saudi Arabia’s second largest oasis of palm trees. This provided the clue that there was underground water.

Dadan North
We then boarded the bus to alight about half a kilometre away to Dadan North. Here, we saw ruins of the city, and waked a little around them. We then reboarded the bus for a short 10min ride to get to Jabal Ikmal.

Jabal Ikmah
At Jabal Ikmal, buggies transport visitors a short 100m distance to a drop off point. Be aware that it is kind of sensitive for strangers of different gender to be sitting beside each other. It was a short walk to see those ancient scripts carved onto stone.


And those were impressive carvings. We were then chaperoned to a tool workshop. Here, we may attempt to carve our name in old Dadanitic script onto a piece of sandstone. It wasn’t easy especially carving curves, but for the full experience, it was wroth a try. We will allowed to keep the piece of sandstone rock souvenir after.

Before boarding the bus, I had a quick look at the souvenir shop at the Jabal Ikmah Visitor Centre. Here, there are books for sale, that shows the discoveries of Dadan artefacts in detail.

Winter Park
1000hrs: I returned to winter park where there was a comfortable 2-hour window before the tour at Maraya. The Winter Park Visitor Centre looks pretty welcoming. The Centre offered arabica coffee, water and a variety of dates from Al Ula and Qassim. Staff shared that the dates were dependent on the amount of sun the place gets. For example, the dates grown in Al Ula tend to get a lot of sun and heat. As such, they have a drier texture and a darker shade of red. On the contrary, dates that grow in Qassim are lighter in colour and softer to chew. The visitors’ centre also had free wifi, good for photo syncing and backups.
At the reception, staff also offered travel advice for Al Ula and assist with booking accommodations. Many arriving travellers to Al Ula on the day itself only inquire if they can join the Hegra tour on the same day. The frequent answer would be no, as tours fill up well before for the Hegra tour. However, the more expensive self-guided option is usually available, and offered other languages like Chinese and Hindi. I chatted with some travellers who wanted to cross check with me on the Centre’s recommendation.
Maraya Tour (Still Day 3 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)

Getting to Maraya
1130hrs: For the next tour at Maraya, it took 15mins to drive to the security checkpoint. Upon arrival, proof of a booking is needed before anyone can access the area. It was then another 5 mins drive to Maraya parking from the security check point.

One other option to access the site would be paying for accommodation. However, this will only allow access to the entry foyer of the building. The other option would be to secure a booking at the restaurant. However, not only is there a minimum spend requirement, a booking is also necessary. I have tried to do a booking but it seems impossible to secure any slot. Slots seem to be snapped up by bots. as soon as they are available for booking. The slots are then only available for purchase through private tours by other companies. Even if securing slots is possible, there is still no entry to the concert hall and the VIP foyer. In the end, I chose the tour so that I can visit all areas in Maraya.

Mirrors
At SR95, it does sound pricey to access a building for a short tour that takes less than an hour. However, this is still far less than a night at one of the rooms on the grounds. This is also definitely less than a meal at the restaurant. However, hearing that the cost of building Maraya was a whopping SR1B, it all made sense. Maraya is initially intended to be a temporary building. It is for hosting the 41st session of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) meeting. Erected in breakneck speed of 72 days, most buildings of this size will take at least 6 months to construct. The hotels on site would logically have provided accommodation to the guests and their entourage for the GCC session.

Travelling around Saudi Arabia, it would then occur on me that full length mirrors are popular. They are in many locations as ornamentation for stores and random urban locations. Maraya currently holds the Guinness record for the largest mirrored building in the world with 9740 panels. Should the LINE be built, that will be the next largest mirrored building in the world. In high dense urban areas, using such reflective surfaces in most urban places causes light pollution. Its reflection can cause inconvenience to others – think the death ray of the walkie talkie building in London. This curved London landmark acts as a focusing point effective to melt the paint on cars. It would probably be suitable as an isolated structure in the middle of nowhere like those mirrored glass cabins in Scandinavia.

Inside the Maraya Building
1200hrs: Pulling into the carpark, I parked just 5mins before the tour starts. I should have left the Winter Park Visitor Centre sooner in case there was a traffic jam.

The tour allowed entry to the cordoned off hall where a large format Al Ula book was on display, amongst many other coffee table books. We were then led to the concert hall, where if we like, we could also try the acoustics of the concert hall on stage. No one dared to sing while I imagined singing the Nessum Dorma on stage. The back walls of the stage are glass, and allows the audience a full view of the external scapes south. At the same, these glass walls were sliding doors that can open up to allow the movement of props and equipment.

At the top of the stage were 6 VIP balconies of which the most private one, towards the west, or behind right of the stage, were prive and exclusive to the royal family. They were not in the centre likely due to the organization of space in the VIP foyer, along with a little more remoteness in the corner. The tour then brought us pass the restaurant in the upper level, and onwards to the roof for a view of the surroundings.

After the tour outside the building
1300hrs: Having taken enough pictures internally, and on the roof, it was time to explore the environs of the building. I had allowed 2 hours to explore the site around Maraya after the tour ended, for a thorough exploration. Around Maraya, I had to circle it once counterclockwise, then another time clockwise. There was a lot of maintenance work ongoing when I was there. The most memorable would be the cleaners who were sweeping the sand in little mounds for sand accumulation. It was also interesting to note that most of the façade panels were really glass and mirrors. On the roof, the building is finished with mirrored stainless steel on its parapet.

I then took a drive around the site, inquisitive about the various accommodation options. At the same time, it was interesting to just watch the changing vantage point of the surrounding desert landscape.

Hegra Tour
Winter Park
Compared to the Dadan tour in the morning where I was the only person, the bus for Hegra is half full. We left on the dot at 1530hrs.
Hegra Visitors’ Centre
Reaching the Hegra Visitor Centre, we need to switch buses. Like other visitor centres, there is offer of water, dates and arabica coffee. Here, we can also look at the exhibits of which the most memorable would be of Hinat. Hinat is a life size model recreated from one of the skeletons found in a tomb that was most recently unearthed.

The next bus is well full, made up of independent travelers and those who are part of multi-day tours. As the bus was full, seating choice is on a first-come-first-serve basis. I wasn’t sure if the view was better on the left side or right side of the bus as there were things to see on either side. The first tombs appears on the left, while the right passes by a large unfinished tomb where construction only took place at the very top. The back of the bus wasn’t quite available to see through while the seat all the way up front was for the Rawi. Most passengers generally stick to their own seats while some will try moving around for a better seat after reboarding.

Jabal Ithlib
1610hrs: We disembarked at the first stop Jabal Ithlib, which was a walk between two rocks along with a grand external facing hall carved into the rock. While there are the ancient scripts on the rock, there is also plenty of graffiti and vandalism around them. As participants of the tour gets trigger-happy on their cameras, the Rawi cautioned that none of her and her assistants are to appear in any of those photographs.


Jabal AlBanat
The second stop was at Jabal AlBanat and this was the place where access into one of the tombs is permissible. It was tomb no.41 for this tour. Tomb 41 is not the regular tomb for the Hegra tour, but is an alternative. The reason being that the previous tomb has to close following the recent torrential rains. The rainwater had washed out more archaeological findings. Likewise, many of the tombs still requires additional checks to be sure that the study is complete with no new findings.



Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza
The third stop is perhaps the most famous and iconic of all: Tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza. Lihyan was a Nabatean general and it was speculated that he had passed away in battle before the tomb could be completed and his body was never found. The ironic fact is that the tomb was incomplete and was the final resting place of none.

The Rawi explained how the Nabateans would have carved the rocks, always top down. As such, while the tomb appears complete from far, the base of the tomb is still incomplete as rock is visibly still in the way. The Rawi also shared that the likely method for the builders and sculptors to get to the top would be via wooden pegs as steps. The method of driving wood into the rock and subsequently swelling with the absorption of water through is a process call Imbibition. This is to split and cut down the rock to size.

Jabal AlAhmar
The fourth and final stop is at Jabal AlAhmar. It is amongst one of the tombs here where recent excavation unearthed the tomb of Hinat. Her tomb is also only found because the rain in previous years has washed a large section of mud away, that had hidden the entrance from tomb raiders.

By now, the sky was already too dim for good pictures. I had initially thought that the rocks will be lit in he early evening. f so, there’s this chance to see Hegra at night, without having to pay for a separate night tour. However, the Hegra-at-dark tour is in an entirely different location, and that none of the rocks in this tour have lights.

While the tour did not allow for free exploration, it is satisfying in the sense that visitors get to see the major sights. All stories are also adequate to pique one’s sense of curiosity about how the humans who lived thousands of years ago were just like us today. There is definitely many more stories awaiting discovery. At 1820hrs, I was back at Winter Park.

Elephant Rock (Still Day 3 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
2110hrs: It was a short 15mins drive on a rather dark road to the Elephant Rock. Many local drivers overtook me despite my already driving at almost 110km/h on a road with a speed limit of 100km/h. The site itself was a restaurant and nothing much was happening on a Sunday evening and Sundays are the start of the Saudi work week.


After taking some pictures, I left at 2200hrs where I would explore Al Jadidah in the evening. Parking in the Old town north carpark, there was a shuttle service to get one to the old town North end.

The north end is the quieter part in comparison with the south end. Having walked through to the South, I then took the shuttle to the Old Town South carpark where I would walk over to the row of eateries to get more authentically local dinner options.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Four: Al Ula (Monday)
Al Jadidah
0800hrs: I started early to see Al Jadidah by day.



It is an easy solo walk through to Alula Old Town. There are no labyrinths to lose your way in this area.

Only a handful of intersections along this connecting lane between the main street and the peripheral street. There is one old house open which is now an exhibition space.

Tantora Festival
Walking through the old town, there were quite an amount of activity and celebration in the locality known as the Tantora Square. There were drumming, clapping, dancing and it was quite a spectacle.

There were also kiosks distributing food to anyone who wants to taste the local food. I had to try the soups, and notably Sahlab, which was a comforting drink amidst the breezy morning.

Al Ula Old Town Free and Easy
1430hrs: I am back at AlJadidah and Alula old town in an attempt to ascend Al Ula Fort. Unfortunately, it is not for public access unless one is with the Alula Old Town tour. I headed to the Old town Visitor Centre and deliberated if I should join the old town tour. Earlier, I had thought about going back to Harrat viewpoint for the full sunset to marvel at the gold of the canyons, and also see Elephant rock by day. I decided that I would stay and do the tour to see the vantagepoint of old town from the top of Al Ula fort.

There are tours daily at 0930hrs which I would have joined if I had known better, so now only the 1630hrs and 1730hrs tour was available. I signed up for the earlier one so that I can see the views before sunset. Luckily, tickets were still available and I explored the shops at Old Town while waiting for the tour to start.
Al Ula Old Town Tour (Still Day 4 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1630hrs: The tour at SR70 was pricey in comparison to the tours of Dadan and Hegra. It was short and doesn’t have much more to see other than the restrcited access up the Al Ula fort and the entry into one of the old houses.

Most stores open for business only in the evening, while some rest and operate in the day. The Al Ula football club store stands out. The other more interesting shop was a store selling different kinds of Arabian honey. Given that I may have had too much Sahlab earlier in the day, I had had to pay a few visits to the toilet in the evening.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Five: Al Ula to Madinah (Tuesday)
Ghars Well, Madinah
0700hrs: Daybreak and it’s time to make my way to Madinah, 350km away. Having read reviews of Khaybar, I decided to take a shorter and more direct drive to Madinah. It was interesting to note that Google is showing a toll road near to Madinah, though there are supposedly no toll roads in Saudi Arabia. To be on the safe side, I still took the detour and finally reached the Ghars well at about 1300hrs. The well wasn’t open and I was contented just to see the well and its significance through the fence, amongst a torrent of cars picking up school children and inadvertently causing a traffic jam. before I would make my way to a parking area closer to Masjid Nabawi.

Masjid Al Nabawi, Madinah
1400hrs: Having made my way through some wry Google navigation, I was lucky to find a free parking lot in the vicinity, where I settle down before making a walk to one of the holiest place in Islam. Despite the heavy traffic, drivers appeared to be more civil and there was less honking on the road. Passer-bys were offering free drinking water, and there are many pilgrims who were travelling as part of a package tour for Umrah. As I made my way to one of the two holy mosques in Islam, there is a sense of calm and serenity in the locale. It is a pity that only Muslims can access the fence area.

As the tower calls for the Asr prayers, the mass movement of people in a single direction was itself a spectacle. The famous operation umbrella shading of the Masjid meanwhile were a sight to behold. Having soaked in the atmosphere, I made my way around the vicinity, wondering if I could visit anything else that may allow non-Muslims to access. The AlSalam Museum was still under construction while the Al Baqi cemetery would only be accessible to Muslims.

AS Safiyyah Museum
Walking around, AS Safiyyah Museum and park looks interesting. It is a shopping mall in some sense with a museum in the basement and food options on the top floor. Ramp access snakes its way up. Even though this was a shopping mall, there were touts selling fragrances and employees trying to get me to try some fragrances. It was an observation that maybe more than a third of stores were selling fragrances.

As Safiyyah Park
1645hrs: Having visited the washroom and removed my watch to wash up, I was worried about missing the moment where the umbrella shades will close as I would like to witness them first hand. However, in the distance the umbrellas were already closed and it was way ahead of sunset at about 1730hrs. Then I realized – my watch was missing – I had left it in the public bathroom. Frantic, I returned to the washroom, to ask the cleaner on duty. The cleaner showed me the watch. After taking my picture for record, i got the watch back. I was also able to prove that the watch pairs with my phone. Only in Madinah?

I then headed back to people watch for the Maghrib prayer. This time, some kids came over and offered me some dates.

Quba Walkway (Still Day 5 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
I then headed over to the Mosque of Al Ghamama where pigeons were resting en masse above its domes. Lulu hypermarket was in the vicinity and I had to explore what produce was on offer as I had yet to explore a supermarket proper in Saudi Arabia.

Next, I followed the crowds and came to Quba walkway which leads to another commercial spine outside the ring road around Masjid Nabawi. There were many buggies shuttling pilgrims between Masjid Nabawi and Masjid Quba to the south. The 10min ride would have been SR10 for the 3km distance.

Hayy Walkway
I now circled through the neighbourhood back to Al Hayy, where there is an enclave of eateries. A triple deck bus is now a store and cafe.

Next, across the road, is the Madinah museum and Hejaz railway station, where the stately building of the Railway Museum is. The only way to cross the busy road seems to be a quick dash. It would be nice if there was some form of pedestrian crossing here like at the Quba. Walkway.

2015hrs: I found a backstreet filled with affordable hotels and Pakistani eateries. Not all eateries accepted visa/master and I settled on the first one which accepted. For SR10, I had a serving of Chicken Bryani and I took my chance with the raw vegetable salad.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Six: Madinah to Al Wa’ Bah Crater (Wednesday)
Masjid Al Nabawi, Madinah Province
0530hrs: I resolved to wake up early to catch the umbrella shading opening at Masjid Nabawi, but they were already open at that time, and sunrise was not until 0645hrs. Another solo traveler I later met, shared that the umbrellas are even before 0500hrs and that she had also missed it. Sigh. By this time, my system was churning and I was in need of a washroom, presumably due to the raw vegetable salad from last evening. I had to visit the toilet three times before I thought I was ready for breakfast. As I was craving hard boiled eggs, I made a purchase of 6 eggs at a grocery store for the price of SR5.

1000hrs: I was finally ready to refuel and head over to Al Wabah crater, en route to Jeddah. I had also marked a few points toward Taif which I wanted to stop to admire the views, but didn’t see any suitable laybys where I could make the stop to take photos. It was only near Al Wabah Crater where I made a short stop as a camel was trotting happily across the road.

Al Wa’Bah Crater, Makkah Province
1400hrs: I finally reached the visitor centre at Al Wabah after 280km. Despite Google maps stating the presence of a visitors’ centre, the centre is not operational. The place has no one except for a single caretaker. The mosque and toilet were also not operational. The nearest toilet is at the next gas station. The caretaker suggested that I take a short walk towards the easternmost pavilion where the views were the best. He also gestured that I am not stray downwards to the crater due to the risk of toxic volcanic gases.

Happy with the views in the eastern pavilions, and decided that I will not do the rim walk that will take some 2 hours, it is my nature to also visit those pavilions in the west just out of curiosity. One was occupied with ladies cooking and bonding over food, while the other was occupied by a family, of which the lady quicky placed her niqab. I looked away and looked down as I passed by the first pavilion.

What is this Arabic cookie?
A somewhat elderly lady mumbled something in Arabic and handled me an Arabic biscuit presumably to hush me on or thank me for not disturbing them. The biscuit was white, with prints of being knead out of dough before it was baked. It tasted mildly sour, and I was intrigued. I determined that it was safe to eat and I didn’t had the runs like I did with the raw vegetables served as a salad in Madinah. I decided to also do my own camp cooking at the central pavilion for those eggs I had bought in the morning.

Enroute to Jeddah
1550hrs: I was ready to head to Jeddah for the 320km drive, and it will get getting dark. I still have almost 4 hours to go. Driving an hour in darkness with only car headlights, I worry about missing the scenery around. As such, at 2000hrs, I decided that I would overnight in Madrakah.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Seven: Jeddah (Thursday)
0830hr: It will take a little more than 2 more hours to get to Jeddah. As today is the last day where most attractions will close on Friday, I decided I will head over first thing to Al Taybat International City Museum of Science and Information. A google review states that one will need to spend at least 3 hours for the museum. En route, I had to stopped at a new roundabout where it was quite a spectacle where a large herd of camels were crossing. My phone and GPS has unfortunately overheated again, and it was a pain to wait for it to be operational. Google has directed a right turn followed by a u-turn, but the road didn’t seem to require that with the completion of the roundabout. It was then another hour before I would reach Al Taybat.

Al Taybat International City for Science and Information (Part 1)
1130hrs: I finally made it to the grounds of Al Taybat and thought I would do the museum in an hour instead of three hours. Having just completed one floor when the museum closes at 1300hrs, there were still 3 floors to go.



I took time to explore the external compound which was still open till security told me that I had to leave the compound. I found lunch at a nearby fast food restaurant and it is my observation that fried food is really popular with the locals.

Somehow, food and a visit to a nearby building showroom occupied the time and I was ready to return to Al Tayabat when it reopens its doors at 1700hrs.
Al Taybat International City for Science and Information (Part 2)




2100hrs: I did not realize there would be enough to keep me till its closing. I then ordered dinner and while waiting to pick up, I was interested in buying fresh fruits from a fruit shop across the road. Then I realized I dd not have cash. I moved on to a nearby grocery store for water. They only accepted MADA and so I had to move on. Having taken dinner, I decided I would visit the hypermarket en route to my booked accommodation. And this was when I chanced upon Zam Zam water in the Panda hypermarket. I had to try it!

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Eight: Jeddah (Friday)
1130hrs: Somehow, I woke up late, probably because I only slept at 2am. Check out time was 3pm, and being hungry, I went out to hunt for food. Al Baik was a short walk away, and by the time I got up to go over, they were already closed for mid-day prayers and won’t reopen till 1300hrs. I scouted around to see if there were any other places in the vicinity that could possibly be opened for lunch. Not finding anything, I thought this might just be the time when there are the lesser cars on the roads of Jeddah. I proceeded to check out so that I can head over to the Jeddah Cornish where I would start off with Red Sea Mall where there was also an Al Baik.

Red Sea Mall
Reaching Red Sea Mall at around 1330hrs and finally getting on my hands on the fried fish meal of Al Baik, I sunk my teeth in, and the first thought was the salt. Less salt could have been used. Finishing up the last morsel of whatever is left, I got ready to explore the mall a little but I was more interested in walking over to the Cornish, as a post-meal stroll.

Walking out, the sun started to scorch as I applied sun block. I crossed the road, walked one block westwards and it doesn’t seem like I can make my way to the Corniche any further, as I couldn’t find a clear pedestrian path to do so. The sun was getting too warm and so, I aborted the plan and headed back to comforts of the air conditioning at Red Sea Mall. I ended doing some shopping and by the time I resolved that I would drive over to the Corniche, the sun was already setting.

Jeddah Corniche in the evening
1630hrs: The drive by Google Maps should have been straightforward in Saudi Arabia, but by my experience so far, this has not been the case. Similarly, this is also not the case, as a few roads were blocked to managed the traffic into the corniche. I had to go round at least twice before I realized that the only road to access was a further drive down the highway. Then there was the queue to enter. It was Friday evening and many local families wanted to visit the corniche as well. Parking was limited and I was fortunate to be able to squeeze between two cars at 1830hrs not too far from my intended place of parking. It was about a kilometre from Al Rahmah mosque as I observed life by the Corniche.

Al Rahmah Mosque
The mosque seems to be open only in designated times. It was opened on Friday evening but not on Saturday morning when I returned.



Jeddah Race circuit
There seems to be a practice race session as there weren’t any official race event when I was there. There was one pedestrian bridge which allows a little peek onto the race circuit.

2000hrs: Should I walk to the Jeddah sign or should I drive? Lazy me decided that I should drive instead of taking a 45mins walk south and back. As I reversed out of the lot, my lot was quicky occupied by the next car, and there were no other lots available along the entire length of the Corniche. Driving round and round by the carparks, and eventually pass the Jeddah sign, I decided that I would head to a nearby mall for dinner. I did not managed to see the Jeddah fountain in operation either.
Al Salamah (Still Day 8 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
2130hrs: Arriving at Cenomi U-walk, it was again another scramble for carparking. Eventually parked, I was unsatisfied with the available food choices, as such, I left and headed back to the Al Salamah neighbourhood and pleasantly found Sri lankan food at 2300hrs. The serving was huge and the Kottu was satisfying. The owners had an electric fly swat which I thought all F&B outlets should have as flies were everywhere. I haven’t seen any lizards nor cockroaches, nor rats though.

Day Nine: Jeddah (Saturday)
16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Jeddah Corniche in the morning
0800hrs: I woke up to find two flies doing it on the window. Having washed up, I decided that I would have to go back to the Jeddah Cornish to see the place by day, as well as to make up for the areas which I had missed. At this time, there are plenty of carparking spaces available and the weather is getting warm and scorching. Al Rahmah Mosque is closed at this time, and I am glad I managed to see it when it was opened last evening. Stopping at almost every stretch, I am finally content and ready for the next destination.








Tahlia Street
1200hrs: I headed to Prince Mohammed bin Abdulaziz St (also known as Tahlia Street) to soak up the retail culture. This would be Jeddah’s equivalent of Beverly Hills, though the cars are moving much faster and the streets are not exactly made for walking nor crossing.

Al Khayyat Centre would where all the top brands are represented with a sheltered drive-through facility. There are larger shopping centres and also centres which are a collection of smaller stores. There are also flagship stores for brands occupying whole buildings.



Al Balad (Still Day 9 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1600hrs: I had kept Al Balad to the last as being in the south would be the point to exit Jeddah as I head further south. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and I have seen exhibits of the buildings at the Al Taybat Museum for science and information. I managed to find a parking space outside the parking area which supposedly offers free shuttle service to Al Balad. The parking area is now fenced off reportedly for maintenance and they is no shuttle service. As I walked towards Al Balad, its northeastern corner came into view bathed in light from the sun which was already beginning to set. In this zone, many restoration projects were in midst.





Heart of Al Balad District at Bayt Nassif
Moving westwards and eventually southwards along Al Zahab, I reached the main entry access into the Al Balad district. Here is where the main activity is, and there were lot of people taking photos and videos for their social media. It was a pity that apart from the numerous shops selling frankincense, many stores were shuttered.



What stood out were the numerous cat feeder stations. This is truly a breeding ground for cats and the cats were so well fed that they were doing in in full view of the public.

Sights requiring admissions
Else, Herbalists Lane is closed, as with the Bayt Nassif Museum when I was there. The staff inside said it has been closed for many days now so bummer!

Roaming the various streets, I chanced upon the Tariq Abdulhakim Center which was opened, where exhibits were about the tunes the famed local musician has composed, most well-known would be finalizing the tune of the Saudi National Anthem. Access is free and it requires escort by staff though and it was probably the quickest 5mins of your life going through the exhibits of this very new and modern set-up.


I decided to head to the more modern western neighbourhood to see what else was on offer and ended up hunting for dinner. There were quite a few places which only accepted MADA and not visa/master. Lulu express here also has Zam Zam available for sale.



16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Ten: Al Bahah (Sunday)
0900hrs: It’s time to drive to the Al Bahah highlands. Someone told me that the people living in Al Bahah descends to Jeddah or Makkah to live as it gets too cold on the mountains in winter. The drive wasn’t too straightforward as Google Maps does not have an option to avoid the restricted areas in the vicinity of Makkah where roads are permitted only for Muslims. The shortest route always involves driving through an area permitted only to Muslims within the realm of Makkah. This detour probably resulted in an additional 30mins drive time and the distance to Al Bahah is about 400km.

1215hrs: I reached Al Hada cable car base after a couple of stops to rest and stopped at to admire the views before continuing the drive. The elevation gain up to Taif was more than a kilometer up over a drive of 20mins. Due to the falling temperatures as we gain elevation, there was the tendency for the car windscreen to fog up requiring demisting. Most of the views up to Al Bahah were obscured by mists and clouds. There was even rain along some parts and i think I saw some tiny specks of ice, and pedestrians were seen well wrapped up to combat the cold.
Al Bahah
1600hrs: I finally reached Al Bahah where the roads were wet with rains that had just passed. Heading up to some view points, it was disappointing that it was misty all over.

I headed off to the Prince Sultan bin Salman Park to have a look before deciding that I should visit Thee Ain heritage village this day as well. Thinking that it would be a proper heritage village with shops and families living there like at Ushaiqer, I thought that it was really odd that it would close by 1830hrs.
It was a 30mins drive to get there but the roads between Al Bahah to Thee Ain would be arguably one of the most memorable drives where there was a series of bends descending along a scenic outlook to the valley below. Parts of the roads seems to have avalanche protections like those in Switzerland and the views along with the drive was exhilarating. I had had to stop a couple of times to admire the beauty of the mountains and the route itself. The drive was almost a 1500m descent and the sun has set.




Thee Ain Heritage Village by night (Still Day 10 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1800hrs: I finally reached Thee Ain and the night lights were already up. Pulling into the carpark, I made my way up and reached the top as quickly as I can in 20mins before the place will close at 1830hrs. The Scale of Thee Ain was about 3 times or more larger compared to the A’arif Castle in Hail, or the Al Ula Fort. There is also many more alleyways and approaches to explore in comparison to the Rijal Alma’a Museum. Though, however this is a ruin and no one is actually staying there.




Roaming around with my handphone light, I descended carefully and the security informed that the place is now closed. There are no gates or fencing though and I noted that a number of cars were packed near some BBQ pavilions and having their dinner.

Hungry, the nearest drive to dinner was still about 10mins away and the first restaurant I checked out at Al Makhwah, only accepted MADA. The next place was a fast food eatery specializing in Broast and seems quite popular with may local patrons. Dinner was satisfying.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Eleven: Thee Ain to Jazan (Monday)
Thee Ain Heritage Village by daylight
0700hrs: I decided that I would like to explore Thee Ain by day to see what I missed. With no gates, I was able to start the exploration early. Workers doing restoration were carrying water up and I met some professionals who were doing checks and surveys on the work done so far. Reaching the highest point of Thee Ain, the views around were fabulous. I could see baboons in the vicinity of the mountains going about their fights.








Having fully explored the ruins, I resolved to wait for the visitor centre to open while I took a quick breakfast in the car. However, at 10am, it remained closed and I finally found out from a staff member that there were some adjustment of exhibits at that time so the place will remain closed. Bummer! Time to get to Jazan as it would be about a 6-hour drive on at least 480km of road and it was already pass 10am. And is it Jizan or Jazan? Both spellings are correct though the road signs were showing Jizan.

The road to Jazan
1140hrs: I finally reached Al Mudhaylif for a gas refill, and taking this coastal road would give me chance again to see the Red Sea and the sights along the coast. I have had to keep reminding myself that I do want to get to the Jazan Heritage when it opens in the early evening by sunset, and stopping too long anywhere would be the thief of daylight.

Possible stops:
Makkah Province:
- Al Qunfudhah: Close to the main road and the seaside. Has some nice gardens and a corniche. It’s just about 50km or 40mins from Al Mudhaylif. I did not stop here as I was still fresh after the previous stop.
- Amaq Corniche Deep: The beach is very close to the Jeddah-Abha Highway 55 and is 100km south of Al Qunfudhah. I did not stop here as I didn’t see anyone else stopping here at this time of the day either.
Aseer Province:
- Al Birk: Another 25km south with a fish market and fishing/boating activities. The seafood market has fresh fish caught from the red sea. I stop here and met a very friendly local who was happy to see foreigners visit the locality. He did tell me about the fish market but unfortunately I really had to get to Jazan by sunset.

- Abu Wajan Beach: Just 5km south of Al Birk seems like a very nice promontory and beach from satellite images but I did not stop here. I also did not stop on any other beaches which requires driving on a seaside branch road.
- Al Qahma: Near to Al Qahma on a peninsula jutting out into the Red Sea is Al Wasl Mountain which looks like an extinct volcano crater reminiscent of Diamond Head or Koko Head in Hawaii from satellite imagery but probably less dramatic and smaller in scale at less than 1km in diameter. This is just about another 25km south of Al Birk.
- Alraqba Beach:
Jazan Province:
- Al Haridah Waterfront
- Al Shoqiq Beach: While I did not go to the beach, I drove close by and saw this ship-like building. I continued my drive as close to the water as possible before turning out to the main highway via a gravel road. As the sun was setting, activity was picking up with stalls in the midst of setting up for evening visitors.


As I drove further southwards towards Jazan, the amount of green vegetation increases and the surroundings became more green. Driving along the red sea, the entire sea appears red with the sun setting.

Jizan (Still Day 11 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1750hrs: Finally parked at Jazan Heritage village, I hurried to catch the last light around the area. Apart from some stores, the fort itself was closed.

There was nothing else much to explore, and I headed to Al Marjan Park for a quick look, then tried to see if Adosareyah Castle which is also permanently closed, can be seen from far, before ending at the Corniche Park which was also closed for construction.

Jazan could have also been a springboard to get to the Farasan islands which could be a day trip. The car ferry is supposedly free to both passengers and cars and have sailings at 0730hrs and 1530hrs though Google states that it is necessary to start queueing 3 hours before sailing. There’s also Abu Arish in the vicinity where the ruins of its castle is located..
16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Twelve: Fayfa Mountains and Wai Lajab (Tuesday)
0700hrs: Start the 100km drive up to the Faifa/Fayfa mountains where images of impressive mountain terracing would be what has attracted me to drive this far south, close to the Yemen border. Many travel adversaries have cautioned against being within 50miles from the Yemen border. I stopped at Al Edabi for breakfast at about 0830hrs.

Lunch selections were not available for packing yet at this time and the drive continues at 1000hrs. In 30mins, I reached the first viewpoint of the drive up. This viewpoint was supposed designed to have a nice water feature but it was now a resting ground for baboons. The baboons were shy and kept their distance, as I descended upon the park grounds. Three cows were grazing carefree on the grass in the park and no one else was in sight.




Faifa Mountains, Jazan Province
1130hrs: There were baboons along various parts of the road on the drive up, until it got more populated with humans and houses.

It was pretty amazing seeing separate branch roads which are pretty steep and definitely roads which I did not want to risk driving on.

The car of choice of the many residents here would be the Toyota pickup, many of whom overtook the Kia Pegas that I was driving. I looked out for a hiking trail but didn’t quite see any so I headed for the highest viewpoint, to soak in the moment.

It was an interesting drive as I have not anticipated having to drive up another mountain crossing after heading downhill from Faifa.

Google Maps also showed some errors have to do a u-turn when a legal left turn was all that is required. There were certainly some breathtaking views up those hairpin turns but there weren’t any stop points to take in the views. Those views were gone by the time I reached the top of the pass. At the top, the locale of Al Hasher is calm, as I pressed on towards Wadi Lajab.

Wadi Lajab, Jazan Province
1630hrs: 75km later, I pulled into the carpark outside the gravel road access to Wadi Lajab. Having read reviews, I was wary about driving in with a sedan car. Even so, I did see a couple of sedans that made the trip in and out, though I cannot be sure if they are unscathed.

During the walk in, baboons up the cliff gave out warning cries upon my approach, I wasn’t sure if I should voice out louder to keep them at bay or to just stay quiet and move on. I certainly did not want any of them to ambush me from above.

Despite this, the 2km walk into the wadi was pretty uneventful with a number of passing cars already leaving.

The Problem of Baboons and Trash
On the other end, rubbish were being ransacked by the monkeys for food and they were all over the place. Monkey-proof bins would have solved this issue, and it is a pity that rubbish is thrown around everywhere.


In order to get any further westwards, climbing a certain boulder was necessary, and it was not a straightforward climb. Even with this climb, there would be further obstacles. Further north, the wadi goes on and on.


With the sky getting dark, it was time to make my walk out. On Google reviews, some has shared pictures of the view at the top of the canyon though I did not see anyone else hike on top.

Al Reeth (Still Day 12 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1830hrs Having driven downhill towards Al Reeth in darkness, I found dinner at a local place selling Broast. Broast is probably the undisputed national favourite dish that is not traditional Saudi food. The bread accompaniment is always unleavened flat bread though. There were loud-talking Yemeni tribemen brandishing their Jambiya around, and were there cars actually drifting round the bow bend of the road by the mosque?

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Thirteen: Aseer Province (Wednesday)
0645hrs: The 140km drive to Rijal Alma’a Museum is a pretty straightforward route till there is elevation gain. There were tunnel crossings and I had actually missed the entry to the village until I have crossed a tunnel. Seeing some familiar architecture similar to that of the museum itself, it was a sudden realization that I might have really missed a turn. Driving back through the tunnel, I was quite relieved that I had not overshot too much. As I drove on towards the targeted parking area nearby, the complex of the heritage village came into sight. It was certainly quite the sight to behold.


Rijal Alma’a Museum
0915hrs: Parking near a school in its shadow, I freshened up and caught a quick bite, while a baboon rummaged through the trash nearby. Making my way towards the entrance, and paying the fee of SR20, I started ascending, then realized that the areas which can be accessed is not too much, where both museum and compound can be explored in about an hour.


The most interesting thing that happened were workers cutting off the branches of a tree, and the worry for the brave worker who was perched precariously on the tree itself as the operation took place.


Overall, the museum pales in comparison to Thee Ain. The Visitor Centre was open and there were a couple of videos showing nice aerial views which would otherwise not be seen by the street.


Soudah
1300hrs: It was necessary to start the ascent up to Abha via Soudah where there were a series of impressive hairpins turns up the hill. I resolved to stop at every viewpoint, and the first was a mosque.

A local saw me starry-eyed with the views so far, and offered to share some pictures with me, to convey his pride of his hometown. That was quite the chance encounter.

On the next stop, there was a middle aged man selling what looked like home-made local lunches, and since I did not have any cash, it was not possible to try.

The third stop had a security camera which was presumably carrying out surveillance to ensure no one was too close to the edge of the mountain by the parapet. The final stop was well populated with baboons, who took the chance to rummage the trash left behind by visitors.

One solution would be to install animal-proof bins as it is a pity to see trash strewn across the edge of the cliffs by the monkeys themselves. It would be a precarious situation for anyone to attempt clearing the trash off the cliff edge.

Abha
Art Street
1600hrs: Abha wasn’t far and there was a viewpoint from the west towards east over the city. There were a few cars where families were here to chill in the view.

Apart from this view, the edge of the lake was closed, and the Art Street was more for locals to do their evening exercises.

After a rather satisfying dinner near Al Bahar Square, I thought I would explore the stately buildings around Al Bahar Square. The square itself is restricted so there isn’t much to see, as I explore the other end of Art Street. Bummer!

Al Shamsan Castle (Still Day 13 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1930hrs: Al Shamsan castle would probably be the last attraction which hasn’t closed down (like the Green Mountain). The road up to the castle requires a pretty steep climb like I was going up a steep hill in San Francisco. My poor navigation had me making a wrong turn and almost trapping myself in someone’s parking yard. After a couple of minutes of careful maneuvering, I finally reached parking. Despite the castle itself being just a walk around, it has a good view of the Ahba.


Al Rashid Mall
With Abha pretty done, I attempted to do some last minute shopping to see if I could get anything special from Abha and perhaps Al Rashid Mall would be a good choice. A full tank to prepare for tomorrow would also be a good idea.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Fourteen: From Abha to Riyadh (Thursday)
The 1000km Drive
0715hrs: It’s a 1000km drive and my main concern would be whether there would be adequate fuel stops along the way. The route seems pretty straightforward and the road would mostly be straight. In the vicinity, would be the latest UNESCO world heritage site of Al Faw, though this site would be nowhere near to opening to the public. The landforms of sand and rocky outcrops, along with many trailers carrying cars presumably back to Riyadh were the main sights. Many travellers have presumably ended their trip of Saudi Arabia in Abha, with only a handful like me choosing to experience the drive.

Bisha
1100hrs: Bisha would be a rest stop for brunch where I had a satisfying meal at a place where locals were queueing up for. My original intended place for brunch had closed, and this would also closed by midday. Passing by a gas station, I took the chance to refuel just in case, as there would no other gas stations till Riyadh.


Hafa’ir
1330hrs At Hafa’ir, I took a rest stop to also fill up with gas along with another toilet break. The roads have been dual lane all the way, and a road divider prevents criss crossing with traffic travelling in the opposite direction.
Al Hufayrah
1600hrs: At Al Hufayrah, I took a longer rest to plan where I would be stopping in Riyadh. I kicked myself for stopping some 40mins as the sun was already setting. In this night drive, I was using the tail lights of the cars in front as a guide. Perhaps, I should have stopped at some point to look up into the sky and perhaps I could have seen the Milky Way, as it felt dark enough. I only thought about it now, remembering the darkness that I was driving through, and it was probably not too safe to stop by the road where cars will pass by at 120km.
I did also miss a turn to a rest stop, eventually stopping by an access way to the main expressway back to Riyadh. With more cars on the road as we got nearer to Riyadh, street lights also became present. Traffic also became more frantic as local get off work towards their weekends.
Diriyah (Still Day 14 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
Bujairi Terrace
2000hrs: I finally reached the targetted parking area as I heaved a sigh of relief for making through the thousand kilometre drive. Walking towards AT Turaif, it doesn’t seem like I can simply walk towards the UNESCO world heritage site as per Google directions. Traffic was controlled to the point that there was quite a heavy jam on the roads.
It was then when I reach Bujairi terrace that I realized that the only way to get to Diriyah was through Bujairi terrace and it was necessarily to make a payment of SR50 to get a QR code. The SR50 can then be used at the food establishments at Bujairi terrace. As my priority was getting to Diriyah itself, I didn’t think much of the food, and headed straight to the ruins.

At Turaif
The approach to Diriyah was impressive, a new curved bridge crossing leading to the visitors’ centre. The vista along the walk was impressive and I hung around the exhibits of the visitors centre marvelling at the stories of Diriyah for a good amount of time.

Heading out, the video projection on the ruins came up, and it was a pretty impressive 7 minutes. I got to find out that the projections came out only hourly in the evenings, with English at 1830hrs; 2030hrs; and 2230hrs. Arabic ones would be at 1930hr; 2130hrs and 2330hrs. I only started the entering the site at around 2245hrs.




By 2330hrs, staff were starting to gather visitors towards the exit and it was a pity that I only got to see the eastern loop. I would have to return, I thought. It was midnight and I was probably the rest person left on the curved bridge as gantries were up at the other end to prevent anyone else from entering.

Angelina
Now, I needed to use that SR50 at Bujairi terrace and almost all food establishments were already not accepting walk-ins. Finally, I found Angelina who was presumably the only one still accepting walk-ins, and they graciously welcomed me in at 0040hrs. Oh, actually, this is already day 15 of these 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary since it is already after midnight.

16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Fifteen: Riyadh and around (Friday)
AD Diriyah in daylight
0830hrs: I am back at Diriyah this morning but only Bujairi terrace is open. AT Turaif will not open till 1400hrs, as it was Friday after all. Almost everything else was closed. Even so, the entire place was very pretty in the calm morning.



I hung around the place, and it was time to leave for the Edge of the World tour pick up point. Having read some horror reviews where there were those who booked the tour who never got picked up, I resolved that I must get there early before the 1330hrs group would leave even though I had booked myself two days back for the 1400hrs tour.
The Edge of the World Tour
King Salman Oasis Metro Station
1315hrs: When I reached King Salman Oasis Metro Station, there was already quite a crowd. I went forward to register and I was gathered to join the 1330hrs group. By the time I left, there were just a handful of people left at the metro and I thought to myself that it was a good call to arrive sooner at the pick up point.
The 4WD was a rather comfortable 7-seater. There was the initial awkwardness with my fellow travellers on this tour. Two of them were a pair of German friends who were out to collect as many countries as they can and their plan is to do the far flung countries first while they are still mobile and leave Europe to the very end. They shared with me their experience to North Korea. Another was a couple from the UK who had made Saudi Arabia part of their trip spanning India and the UAE as well. The last was a solo traveller from Japan whom has aspirations that she will be able to visit Makkah legally as a non-Muslim, as the Islamic World’s holiest site is currently only accessible to Muslims.
Compared to the Kia Pegas that I was driving in for the trip, this journey felt smooth. The first stop was a rest stop for a toilet break, which coincidentally was at Al Quiranah, which was the first rest stop on day one of this trip. I went back into the supermarket and everything is as familiar as I have seen them some 2 weeks back. The whole place was overran with people who were enroute to the Edge of the World, as there would be no restrooms in the area.
The Curious Case of the Camels Enclosure
The route following didn’t quite go according to what Google maps has recommended. The 4WD took small routes through a village and came to a halt where about of dozen of camels were as curiously looking at us humans as we look to them. They were friendly and didn’t hesitate to taste anything that they could get their tongues on. One camel was licking and nibbling on one of the ladies blue leather handbag while she was talking a selfie.

Gazelles
The next stop was an enclosure of gazelles, who were tiny. I had always thought that gazelles were as large as antelopes as they raced and pranced around on TV chased by their predators. The gazelles were also as curious as whether us hoomans will give them some green grass to munch on.

At the Edge (Still Day 15 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)

Final stop was the carpark to the Edge of the World and there were plenty of people all around. Too many viewpoints and all of them plenty stunning as long as there are people there. We were to follow a guide, whom some of us lost as we indulged in the views. We were permitted to stay till sunset and everyone else there would also be staying till sunset. Some areas has a steeper climb where it was quite a queue to tackle.





Sunset at the Edge of the World
We had about an hour left or so before the sun finally set and there commence the beelines to get downslope to get back to the cars before last light.





Alas, there were so many cars, so which one were ours. Fortunately, they were parked by car make and we were able to find where the car was parked by asking other drivers who were waiting for their passengers.

After-the-Edge Dinner
The tour I had joined on, all had booked dinner, and so I got to see what was being served while I chatted with new found friends around me. As the night got dimmer, the weather also got much cooler. The guide shared that they will switch off all the lights so that all can admire the starlight. However, we aren’t that far from Riyadh so the skies were still pretty bright, hence there wasn’t much of the stars.

Also, on the Mauna Loa tour in Hawaii on Big Island, the tour companies would bring along large telescopes so that those who joined the tour had a chance to see the planets. On hindsight, I do regret missing the chance of looking into the skies when I was resting in more remote areas, or had to drive in darkness. Surely, there could be another chance of looking and seeing at the milky way just as darkness allows. And then it was time to go back to Riyadh.

King Salman Science Oasis
2030: Back at King Salman Oasis, we exchanged contact details so I had to visit the Science Centre right beside. They were still open and admission was free. There wasn’t much to see though. I thought I should have a headstart at the National Museum which will be closed only at 2200hrs.

National Museum of Riyadh
Getting to the National Museum parking wasn’t quite as smooth as roads were either closed and Google maps hadn’t been quite reliable. By the time I parked and headed over, the museum was already not taking in new visitors after 2130hrs. Sigh.
16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary Day Sixteen: Riyadh (Saturday)
National Museum of Riyadh
0700hrs: Time to wash up and get to the National Museum. It was also good time to top up the gas before the rental return. The National Museum kept me there for almost 2 hours and it was pretty cold, as I regret not taking a jacket along.






As I basked in the sun upon, I wandered to the gardens and thought it’s convenient that that Murabba historical palace would be so close. Unfortunately it was closed and I wouldn’t get to see it in this trip.


Al Masmak Fortress (Still Day 16 of 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary)
1300hrs: Time to get to Al Masmak Fortress which was supposedly just a 10min drive away. As I reached parking, I saw that parking wasn’t free and made the decision that find alternative parking as I always had. It proved to be a bad choice. Turning into King Faisal Road kept me in one of the worst traffic jams experienced in the city, as the lights were never quite in favour. This was made worst by the traffic that was turning out from the slip road Abd Al Wahid Charafeddine, and by the time I reached a parking spot, it was already 1340hrs.

Al Masmak fortress is small and remarkable and it tells of the story of the successful siege by the Saudi Arabia’s founding king.


The Imam Turki bin Abdullah Grand Mosque is also in the same locality for a quick look, as well as the Souk Zal where some auction action was taking place.

1600hrs: It was a jam to get out of Abd Al Wahid Charafeddine, held by the traffic light on King Faisal Road which is red during what feels like 80% of the time. I didn’t manage to past the jam until some 15 minutes later, as I head back to Diriyah, to enter before 5pm.

AT Turaif
1655hrs: Fortunately, I made it past ticket checks at 1655hrs, saving myself SR50. This evening trip was to compensate what I didn’t get see the previous day.


I had thought that I would be able to complete all sights within Diriyah by 1830hrs in time for the first English projection show at the visitor’s centre, but I ended up taking a full 3 hours!


There were 6 stop points at palaces of the previous kings, where one could collect a special passport stamp as a souvenir. There were also numerous other exhibits and vantage points from where to take pictures from.




Riyadh International Airport, end of the 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary
2015hrs: Back and its time to make my way to the airport to catch the flight. Be aware that the road directions to get to the rental returns isn’t quite as straightforward and one would likely miss a turn and have to do an entire 10 to 15-minute detour to get back to the same area. The Rental return area will have do checks at the return where any mileage excesses will then have to be paid at the counter.
The shuttle bus from the rental car return terminal to the other terminals also took time. Don’t forgot to claim tax refunds before checking in your baggage! These will be checked by the counter staff and security, and you will not get your tax refunded if you have already checked your bags in.
And that was my actual experience in these 16Days Saudi Arabia Itinerary. Over 16 days, I spent a total of SR2900 in Saudi Arabia for this itinerary excluding accommodation, airfare and shopping.
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